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Sommelier Notes
Introduction
Each section of this wine list is introduced by a short description of
the general characteristics of the wines it contains.
We do not attempt to describe the
flavors of each wine, but rather give you a reference point with which to orient
yourself.
Here, there are no rules,
as we postulate that food and wine can inspire one and other.
We believe that the "correct" pairing of
a dish with a wine is in large measure, determined by the unique tastes of the
individual guest.
We challenge ourselves to offer our guests the classics:
Red and White Burgundy, Cabernets from
California, German Rieslings, bold Brunello from Italy; in addition the less
expected:
Sake, emerging Spanish
regions, wines from Sicily, Pinot Noir from New Zealand, South American and
South African wines, as well as fascinating selections from less familiar
producers and regions. We encourage you to discover and enjoy them with
us.
We do not shy away from suggesting which wines to try, but would rather
suggest on a personal basis, with your specific preferences and curiosities in
mind.
To this end, each and every
server is highly trained to offer advice.
Of course, a Sommelier is always available if more detailed information
is desired.
Wine, like food,
involves the senses, the intellect, geography, history, chemistry and in some
cases, the cosmos.
Each wine has a
story to tell.
One not only drinks wine, one smells it,
observes it, tastes it, sips it, and one talks about it.
King Edward VII
Champagne
and Sparkling
Wine
Nothing excites quite like
Champagne
and sparkling wine.
The fact of the matter is that it's all
in the dirt.
It is the chalky soils
of the
Champagne
region which produce the
models for sparkling wines all over the world.
Fine examples can be found in regions
throughout Europe, North America and even such far away places as
Australia
and
New
Zealand
.
Sparkling wine is always appropriate, to toast an occasion, as an
aperitif, or, in the spirit of the Champenois, to be enjoyed throughout the
entire dining experience.
I only drink Champagne when I'm happy,
and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company, I
consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I am not hungry and drink it when I
am. Otherwise I never touch it – unless I'm thirsty.
Madame Lily Bollinger
Sake
This section highlights, not wine, but the complex intricacies, subtle
nuances and vibrant aromatics offered by premium sakes.
Rich with tradition, the regional and
stylistic differences create tremendous diversity and versatility.
Among this collection are several
selections suitable as an aperitif, as well as more robust styles appropriate
for later in the meal.
All these
things come together to form an exhilarating food and beverage experience, on
par with those created by some of the world's finest wines.
It is the man who drinks the first bottle
of saké;
then the second bottle drinks the first,
and finally it is the saké that drinks the man.
Japanese proverb
American White
Wine
California
Chardonnay
California
has enjoyed much success with the
Chardonnay grape.
Initially, wines
produced from this variety were meant to mirror and sometimes compete with,
their French counterparts.
Now we
see continuous evolution through experimentation with different clones,
viticultural growth, zealous winemaking efforts, and a focus on terroir.
California Chardonnay has found a way to
define itself on its own terms and we are all better for it.
We offer many choices in this section of our list due to the continuing
popularity of the varietal, but we believe that there is little or no overlap in
the style, taste and flavor of these wines.
Focusing on the stylistic differences
from Mendicino down to the
Central
Coast
, the winemakers that we feature are
great innovators who have created their own powerful interpretations of the
Chardonnay grape.
Included in the
roster are masterpieces by well-known and admired estates such as Peter Michael
Winery.
Also noteworthy, are the
wines from a new generation of smaller producers including David Ramey and Ted
Lemon.
In Chardonnay is one of the happiest of
all combinations: the grower loves to grow it;
the winemaker loves to fashion it; and we
all love to drink it.
Jancis Robinson, "Vines, Grapes & Wines"
California
Sauvignon
Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc never quite gets center stage, though it has significant
following.
It is always seemingly
on the verge of being discovered.
This may be because it does not have the size and texture of its
California
counterpart.
In inexpert hands or
grown in the wrong location, the variety can produce wines tasting skunky or
vegetal.
Under the right
supervision the charm of Sauvignon Blanc comes through with lively citrus fruit,
herbal tones and crisp acidity.
Sauvignon Blanc can handle a wide range of flavors, from earthy
vegetables, to lighter seafood dishes, to goat cheese.
Other
California
White
Wines
This section incorporates a number of wines crafted
California
producers of
unique varieties from several different European regions.
Here, one can find Viognier made by Josh Jensen at Calera.
This
Rhone
varietal is characterized by its rich and oily
texture and delicate stone fruit palate.
One can also find stunning wines from Mat Garretson, as well as Randall
Graham, both of whom focus on
Rhone
varieties.
You will also find Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and other wines created
by inspired and impassioned winemakers.
All of which should prove to be fun, exciting and provocative.
Give me a glass that I may see, the
splendid Sauvignon in thee, The Riesling grape within your eyes, Your Chardonnay
and Pinot skies. Give me a glass that I may see, beyond sweet mediocrity…
Unknown
White Wines from the
Pacific
Northwest
Here we introduce perhaps unfamiliar wines.
Oregon
is fast taking hold as its
international recognition grows, thanks to the fervent efforts of small
producers including Eric Hamacher, Jay Sommers and the Deep Roots
Coalition.
You will find Pinot Gris
Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling from the
Willamette
Valley
.
Another emerging wine-producing area is
Washington
State
. Here there are fine
wines made from Chardonnay Chenin Blanc, Semillon and Riesling.
Woodward
Canyon
and Delille Cellars are but two of a pool of
top quality wineries found in the
Columbia
Valley
.
Wines from these regions have their own personalities that are very
distinct from the wines of
California
and from each other.
For the most part, they are created by
small production houses, made by people who are not short on enthusiasm or
passion for their grapes or for their craft.
European White
Wine
Rhone
Valley
White
Wines
These wines are unique and thus misunderstood.
For that reason, there are many lists
that do not represent whites from the
Rhone
Valley
.
Those who are curious enough to try the
wines from this region are rewarded with the discovery of a beverage that is
well suited to food.
We offer a
selection of white wines from the North, Hermitage Blanc,
St. Joseph
and Condrieu,
and the south with Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
The Condrieu, made from the difficult Viognier, is reminiscent of the
broad flavors of soft tree fruit like peach, pear, and apricot.
In the hands a producer like
Cuilleron, it can seem more like an elixir or potion than a wine.
Hermitage Blanc, on the other hand, is more solid and firm, and has the
ability to age well, becoming nutty and honeyed over time.
In its youth it has more of a citrus and
mineral character.
The whites of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are lighter and firmer than one would
expect from a region that produces heavy and hearty red wines.
These wines have spicy, herbal notes and
firm, but not crisp, acidity.
The
Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, made principally from the Roussane grape,
opens up after about fifteen minutes of air, in the same manner as a young
Burgundy
.
To enjoy wine… what is needed is a sense
of smell, a sense of taste and an eye for colour.
All else is experience and personal
preference.
Cyril Ray from "Ray on Wine"
White
Bordeaux
Bordeaux Superieur,
Graves
and
Pessac-Leognan are light, supple oak aged wines from the Sauvignon Blanc and
Semillon grapes.
In some the
Sauvignon Banc is used exclusively and the wines are very dry.
In all cases, they are unlike wines made
from these varieties from different provenance.
White
Burgundy
The white wines of
Burgundy
at their finest are among the most
refined of all white wines on earth.
While other Chardonnay can equal or surpass even the most robust white
Burgundy
in
power, none can rival them in finesse and length, complexity and
fascination.
From the northern zones of
Burgundy
, the steely, mineral driven wines of
Chablis entice with their astonishing length and longevity.
They are not round, robust and voluptuous
like some of their
New World
counterparts.
These are intellectual Chardonnays,
focused and lean, with a razor's edge of acidity, definitely worthy of
reflection.
In the Cote de Beaune we find the silken chardonnay that inspired
imitation all around the world.
The
style here varies from the full, broad palate of Corton-Charlemagne, to the
hazelnut of Meursault. Traveling further south, one encounters wines with
vanilla and honey character, and with citrus and chamomile notes, in
Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet respectively.
These wines give the impression of
richness without being heavy or over done.
The fuller wines from these appellations can accompany richer dishes
composed of fowl or lobster, and the leaner styles will amplify the flavors of
seafood preparations.
…no critic should forget, as he dallies
with epithets, sipping his oak-fermented Chardonnay, or rates one precious
bottle half a point behind another, that wine is one of the miracles of nature,
and that its
10,000 years of partnership with man has
not removed that element of mystery, that independent life that alone among all
our foods has made men think of it as divine.
Hugh Johnson, "Wine"
White
Loire
The
Loire
Valley
spans an impressive distance while running
along its namesake,
France
's longest river.
Beginning in the Atlantic and journeying
upstream towards the
Cevennes
Mountains
, we stop first in the coastal
region of Pays Nantes where light, almost transparent and pleasingly grapey
wines are made from Muscadet.
Next,
the middle Loire around the towns of
Angers
and
Tours
, boasts two appellations; Anjou-Saumur and
the
Touraine
,
where the Chenin Blanc grape achieves greatness in a stunning array of styles.
Finally, in the well liked upper
Loire
, known
as the Central Vineyards, Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre express the racy, smoky,
citrus fruit character of the Sauvignon Blanc grape.
Alsace
Alsace
stands alone as the region in
France
where grape variety, rather
than regional traditions, determines the type of wine that is made.
There are four noble varieties: the
massively floral and spicy Gewurztraminer, which is evocative of lychees and
rose petals; the intense stone fruit of Riesling; the nutty and creamy-textured
Pinot Gris; and
Muscat
, with its notes of orange rind and
lemon.
Elsewhere in the World these
grapes often are made into sweet wines, here they are most frequently expressed
in elegantly dry and complex versions.
In warmer vintages, these wines display an exotic richness and ripeness
that cannot be found in any other region.
Though
Alsace
is given to varietal definition of the
wines, it does not exclude location entirely from the equation.
There has been a demarcation of Grand
Cru vineyard sites over recent years.
We
have been careful to select wines from unique, important vineyards such as
Josmeyer's Hengst or Zind-Humbrecht's Brand and Goldert.
We also explore wines from Marcel Deiss
who goes against the grain and often does not list varietal, but specific
vineyard sites.
These wines are
usually blends of the great varieties of
Alsace
, with the intent to express the
terroir rather than varietal character.
The vineyard
and wine are great mysteries.
Alone
in the vegetable kingdom, the vine gives us a true understanding of the savor of
the earth.
And how faithfully it is
translated.
Through it we realize
that even flint can be living, yielding, nourishing.
Even the unemotional chalk weeps, in
wine, golden tears.
Gabrielle Sidonie Colette, "Prisons et Paradis"
Austrian
Wine
The Gruner Veltliner is the most widely planted variety throughout and
has an enticing mix of spice, herbs, olives, minerals and a citric zing on the
palate.
Riesling is also produced
in a fashion unique to
Austria
, rich and fleshy these dry
styles are exceedingly food friendly.
In the Wachau, it truly is all about the
vineyard site being expressed through the wine.
Production is largely Riesling and
Gruner Veltliner, and these intensely complex wines deign for cosmic
recognition.
Later in this list, and in your dining experience, we encourage you to
explore the sweet dessert wines from the Neusiedlersee of Burgenland.
These are rich, thrilling and
intense!
German Wine
The wines of
Germany
are steeped in tradition,
with many regional aspects creating vine stressing conditions, and treacherous
farming situations.
German wines, as we know them, began to be produced in the late
18
th
century, and are among the worlds greatest.
They are known for their refinement and
innate ability to express a vineyard's characteristics.
The backbone here is acid and they have
plenty, which adds nothing if not life and longevity.
Here, Riesling is King.
Whether it is a drier, or t
rocken,
style, or a kabinett,
spatlese or auslese with respectively increasing sweetness, Riesling is
undeniably the most versatile white grape when pairing with food.
Play with the light, crisp wines from
the
Mosel
, the richer wines from Rheingau, or
the enticing spice notes of the Pfalz.
We offer a wide spectrum of selections, from first class producers.
...Riesling knows soil more intimately
than any other grape, and…Riesling is more articulate than any other grape in
conveying soil right into your palpitating palate. Go on, SOIL YOUR PALATE,
with Riesling.
Terry Thiese, Wine Importer and Bon Vivant
Italian White
Wines
We feature sultry and
enticing wines made by seasoned producers such as Angelo Gaja in Piedmont, Paolo
Di Marchi in
Tuscany
and Guiseppe Quintarelli
in
Veneto
.
There are equally as compelling wines from up and coming producers in
Sicily
, as well as fun and racy crisp whites
from the more familiar provinces of
Friuli
and
Alto Adige.
One can find traditional grape varieties such as Pinot Grigio, and more
internationally known varieties such as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.
There is, however, the unmistakable
stamp of
Italy
in each glass; dry, citrus,
minerals and nuts.
If oak is used,
it is done so judiciously.
Australian and
New
Zealand
White
Wine
Once known for portly Chardonnay, a collection of small, impassioned
producers, the likes of Jeffrey Grosset have changed the face of Australian
white wine production.
Domaine Moss Wood sets the bar for
Australian Chardonnay, revered for its age ability and finesse.
Riesling is gaining popularity; the
Clare
Valley
and
Eden
Valley
in
South
Australia
are proving that their unique terroir is
ideally suited to this grape variety.
Others are triumphing with Rhone varietals, as well as
Bordeaux
inspired
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blends.
On the North Island of New Zealand, there are some fine wines made from
Chardonnay in
Auckland
and Gisbourne.
Further south, in
Wellington
and across the Tasman in Nelson and Marlborough
on the
South Island
, we find Sauvignon Blanc,
racy and crisp, with grapefruit and gooseberry character.
Some of the "Reserve" wines see neutral
barrel-aging, which gives richness and complexity without oak flavors. Other
areas to explore with us include
Central Otago
,
the southernmost region, known for aromatic Rieslings and Pinot Gris.
You have only
so many bottles in your life, never drink a bad one.
Len Evans, Australian wine legend
White Wines from the
Rest of the World
Collected here are select white wines from some of the Worlds lesser
known, and perhaps under appreciated regions.
We feel that because of their quality,
complexity and compatibility with our cuisine they deserve a place in our
cellars.
We hope to share with you intriguing wines from Northern Spain, also
included are varying styles from
Chile
and
Argentina
.
In addition, we feature whites from
Israel
,
Portugal
,
Switzerland
,
South Africa
and
other far reaching places yet to be fully explored.
American Red
California
Proprietary
Since the early 1980's, winemakers began to make
Bordeaux
style wines,
blending high proportions of Merlot and Cabernet Franc with their Cabernet
Sauvignon.
These wines were
assigned proprietary names to set them apart from wines that had Cabernet
Sauvignon as the sole or dominant variety.
Wines, and thus names, continued to grow, causing confusion.
The result was the name
Meritage,
a blend of the words "merit"
and "heritage".
This category was
supposed to eliminate the need to create names for each and every new
Bordeaux
blend that came
out. Yet there still remained the desire to create one's own identity by
designating proprietary names such as Cain Five, Dominus, Opus One, Rubicon,
etc.
Each year more appear on the
market.
These meritage or
proprietary
Bordeaux
varietal blends are elegant and offer
more range than straight Cabernet wines.
Also included in this section are the very dissimilar wines made from
blends of
Rhone
or Italian varieties.
The characteristics of the
Rhone
varieties, the Syrah, Mourvedre and Grenache principally, are intense and
fruity, tannic and exuberant. Italian varieties, such as Sangiovese, are more
restrained and structured, but interesting counterpoints to the Cabernet culture
of Californian red wine and are homage to the strong Italian roots of the
area.
…we should drink. Certain things were put
upon this earth for our enjoyment and it's wasteful and wicked to condemn
them.
Barbara Holland, "Endangered Pleasures"
California
Cabernet Sauvignon
This wine is the quintessential
California
red wine.
Cabernet is the strongest varietal from
California
when compared to the other classic examples from around the world. It is
fruitier and more intensely concentrated than all but a handful of the finest
Bordeaux
.
We believe that we have assembled a
collection of cabernets that are unique expressions of particular vineyards or
winemaking philosophies.
We offer the better selections from the likes of Araujo, Bryant, Colgin,
Dunn, Grace Family, Harlan, Hundred Acre and Merus.
California
Pinot
Noir
Compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir is lighter in color, more
delicate in flavor, and more difficult to grow and handle, yet the range of
flavors that it is capable of and its inherent sensitivity to its environment,
make it the holy grail of the wine world.
Pinot noir will not be manipulated in the way that the sturdier red
varieties can, and thus successful pinot is always a result of the special
collaboration of nature and man.
Winemakers in
California
have, over the years, searched for
the right vineyard, the right technique, the right barrel and the right clones
of pinot to make the perfect wine.
The resulting improvements have been continuous.
Wines from Carneros offer spicy, red cherry flavors and earth, with some
richness and depth.
Russian
River
produces wines that offer ripe,
black cherry and raspberry and a hint of spice.
These wines are more delicate and
floral.
From the
Central
Coast
, the wines are distinctive in their
herbal flavors, cola & spice.
Our selections range from the wines from sturdier producers, which can
benefit from age and are rich and ripe, to the more lightly framed styles that
offer immediate pleasure.
In pinot
noir, as in matters of love, only the heart can decide.
The Pinot Noir is a minx of a vine.
Indubitably feminine alas, if not exactly female, this is an exasperating
variety for growers, winemakers and wine drinkers alike. It leads us a terrible
dance, tantalizing with an occasional glimpse of the riches in store for those
who persevere, yet obstinately refusing to be tamed.
Jancis Robinson, "Vines, Grapes & Wines"
Oregon
Pinot
Noir
David Lett planted Pinot Noir in the
Willamette
Valley
in 1965, and the rest was
history.
By the 1980's the rest of
the world began to wake up and pay attention to the wines from this
rain-drenched part of the
United States
.
White varieties such as Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling are grown in
Oregon
, but
the most profound wines are made from the inimitable Pinot Noir
grape.
This is the first state to enact truly enlightened regulations regarding
organic and biodynamic vineyard practices and winemaking, and the support of
sustainable agriculture – all for respecting the earth and its bounty.
There is much experimentation with
different clones.
Oregon
is still the only region in
America
where
there is wholesale devotion to making great wine from the most fickle of grapes,
and they are getting results.
Here we feature wines from pioneers like David Lett (Eyrie Vineyards),
Dick Ponzi (Ponzi Vineyards) and Dick Erath (Erath Vineyards).
We also introduce you to wines from the
new generation: Brooks, Lemelson, Hamacher and Maysara.
Because of a succession of strong
vintages since 1998, we will have plenty of opportunity to enjoy wines from this
part of the world for quite some time.
California
Zinfandel
This wine is unique to
California
.
In fact, Zinfandel is rarely found
anywhere else. There are groups formed around just Zinfandel.
The London Club, which is dedicated to
the enjoyment of American wines, was named the Zinfandel Club by Andre Simon and
Harry Waugh because of the strong, brawny "American" nature of the wine as much
as for its geographic exclusivity.
Zinfandel got a bad rap with wines labeled "white zinfandel" and "blush",
but under this section, the wines are red.
What we have here are only exciting, full-blooded, deep purple and red,
blood and guts Zinfandels.
Some are
rich in fruit, and are appropriate with roasted fowl, and some will be tarry and
chewy, standing up and meeting only the heaviest of game with the firmest of
handshakes.
"…Harvest time has come.
I beckon thee to the table."
Maria Helm Sinskey, "The Vineyard
Kitchen"
California
Merlot
Merlot was
the
grape variety
in the 1990's.
There are several
styles that one can find.
There is
the Cabernet-style that has loads of cassis and structure.
Alternatively, one can find a softer,
supple style that makes it very approachable in its youth.
Merlot can benefit from blending with
other
Bordeaux
varieties.
The addition of small
amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon gives a wine more backbone.
Duckhorn is the benchmark for California Merlot.
Though there are other producers
who come up with quality wines of structure, intensity and depth, none have been
as consistent as this one estate, whether with their famous "Three Palms" or
with the straight
Napa
Valley
selection.
…the vine is a pleasanter object of
sight…
Nathaniel Hawthorne
Washington
Red
Wines
Outside of the Pacific Northwest,
Washington
's wines are not well known, but
they are quickly growing in popularity as quality, quantity and availability
increase.
The wines on our list
come from the eastern part of the state where the desert-like environment
creates unique growing conditions with elongated sunshine hoursand thirsty
earth.
The results are complex and
compelling wines.
We explore the
savory Cabernets and even Syrah which can surprise and impress with the subtlety
of flavors and the pleasure that they cultivate.
We feature the familiar names of
Columbia
,
led by pioneer
David
Lake
MW
,
Leonetti, L'Ecole No. 41 and
Woodward
Canyon
.
We are also happy to introduce you to
Cadence, Cayuse, Owen Roe and the Magnificent Wine
Company.
European Red
Wine
Italian
Wine
Vines are cultivated in each one of the provinces of
Italy
, unlike
any other wine-producing country.
There are thousands of years of winemaking in its history, though it
wasn't until after the late 1940's when things really got serious.
Wines are largely based on indigenous
varieties, of which there are over two thousand.
International varieties are now used in
many regions, co-existing happily with local vines, or forming the base of new
"Super" wines.
In
Tuscany
, Sangiovese reigns with its tones of
sour cherry and leather saddle.
One
will find many Super-Tuscans: wines made with
Bordeaux
varietals, sometimes with the addition
of the Sangiovese.
Of growing
importance is the area of the Maremma where there is a sea of wheat and a host
of great wines such as those from Bolgheri, where Sassicaia and Ornellaia paved
the way for exciting wines.
Piemonte is where Nebbiolo holds court.
It is responsible for what some consider
being some of the best and most long lived wines from
Italy
.
It is expressed in subtle and different
ways, depending on its origin:
Barolo, Barbaresco or Gattinara.
Nothing is sexier than old Nebbiolo.
Wines from other traditional regions such as
Veneto
and Friuli or from emerging ones such as
Umbria
,
Puglia
or Sicilia also make an appearance in
this section.
"With a saint
and an angel watching over them – not to speak of a poet and a wizard – the new
vines should have nothing to fear."
Edward Steinberg, "The Vines of
San Lorenzo
"
Red Rhone and
Provence
There are records of vines and wines in the
Rhone
Valley
that date back to the first
century.
This area runs the length
of the River Rhone.
The regions and
wines vary so much that they are divided into two distinct zones.
There is such a difference in terrain,
climate and even culture and gastronomy.
Extending from Vienne to
Valence
, the
Northern Rhone
is home to Syrah.
It has warm summers, cold winters and a
wind called
le mistral
, that can
strip a vine at the worst of times.
Wines from Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, Cote-Rotie and to a lesser
extent,
St.
Joseph
and Cornas, are represented.
These wines are a little more refined
than those from the area to the south.
They are dense and powerful, full of tar and dark
fruit.
In the Southern Rhone, which runs from Montelimar to
Avignon
, wines are blended
from Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Syrah.
These wines seem a lighter than their
northern relatives.
Remarkable
versions of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are found with Chateau Rayas, Chateau
de Beaucastel and Henri
Bonneau.
Red
Bordeaux
Bordeaux
is often described as the most
important wine region of
France
due to its high standard of
quality and its consistency over the last two centuries.
Since
Bordeaux
is blended from cabernet, merlot and cabernet
franc principally, comparisons with
Napa
Valley
are easy. Yet, despite the varietal
kinship with many of
California
's great reds,
the flavor of
Bordeaux
is more subtle and delicate.
In addition, the character of wines from
the various sub-regions within
Bordeaux
is diverse, determined in large part
by the soil, grape composition and exposure.
In general, the Right Bank, comprised chiefly of wines from St. Emilion
and Pomerol, depends heavily upon the Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes to make
round and plummy wines with overtones of black olive.
Those from Pomerol have great longevity
equal to some wines of the
Medoc
, while the
great St. Emilions offer immediate pleasure.
These areas are home to many small
producers known as
garagistes
, such
as Chateau Valandraud.
Often these
wines are flashy, big and burly, with intense color and fruit.
The
Left Bank
contains the more famous
and older districts of the Haut-Medoc: St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Julien, and
Margaux.
Here Cabernet Sauvignon
dominates the wines, making intensely cedary and black-currant scented wines
with the capacity to age indefinitely.
Yet they seldom seem heavy or rough.
In particular, Margaux and St. Julien
have a supple and velvety texture, with the flavor of cedar, cassis and a
special earthy note as a signature.
The wines of Pauillac are more structured with a sturdy, mineral quality
that sometimes smells like the shavings of lead pencils.
Pauillac contains three of the five
first growths--Latour, Lafite and Mouton--Chateaux Pichon Lalande and Pichon
Baron, Lynch-Bages, and a host of lesser-known, quality fifth
growths.
South of the city of
Bordeaux
is the
venerable and large zone of
Graves
, which has
the remarkable estates of Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion and La Tour
Haut-Brion as well as the excellent, but lesser-known Domaine de
Chevalier.
…Wine abandons thousands of
famous names, the vintage years and
delightful bouquets to run wild
and anonymous through your brain…
Rumi, 13
th
Century Sufi mystic
Red
Burgundy
It is probably no coincidence that the monastic orders of
Burgundy
cultivated the
Pinot Noir grape and found in it a symbol for man's relationship with the
universe, a relationship that was blessed and confirmed by the goodness of the
wine.
Even now, there is a reverent
respect for the vine – for the soil in which it is grown, and its history.
Drive along the
Cote
with vines to the east and west and only the open
road ahead and there is no mistaking that there is something divine at
work.
The soil and climate of
Burgundy
are ideal for the unpredictable Pinot
Noir.
There is power and intensity
of flavor expressed in wines from Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St.-Denis,
Vosne-Romanee and Nuits-St.-Georges in the Cote de Nuits, and from Aloxe-Corton
and Pommard in the Cote de Beaune.
In Chambolle-Musigny, Beaune, Volnay, Vougeot and Echezeaux there is a
delicate and sensual character made manifest.
Let us taste and talk about the energy
and spirit of the Pinot.
Benjamin Leroux, winemaker of Domaine Comte
Armand
Spanish Red
Wines
The winemakers of
Spain
, like its great chefs, are
rewriting the "rules".
Just as
Spain
is in the limelight for its
innovative food, its wine regions are being rediscovered.
Rioja has historically been the major red wine region.
Traditionally made wines offer extended
barrel ageing, use of American oak and exhibit more tobacco and dark fruit
characters.
More modern styles such
as those by Finca Allende and Artadi are more fruit forward and plump.
Ribera del Duero, located north of
Madrid
, is
growing in production.
Wines from
both of these regions are made principally from the Tempranillo
grape.
In Priorat, the name Alvaro Palacios is whispered with great respect and
enthusiasm.
His family makes wine
in Rioja, but after training in
Bordeaux
, he and
a handful of other winemakers made their way to
Catalonia
and paved the way for a great
future.
Wines from this region are
rich and huge with an explosion of fruit.
Australian Red
Wine
Shiraz
is the red grape of Australia
Penfolds Grange and Henschke's "Hill of Grace" are the most famous expressions
of this variety, but
Australia
has its own Rhone Rangers
such as David Powell of Torbreck wines in the Barossa.
The Barossa is home to the minty, rich
and ripe
Shiraz
.
Coonawarra Cabernets are big and full of black currants.
There are other great red wines from
South
Australia
.
Rhone blends,
Bordeaux
blends or single varietals from other emerging
regions such as the Adelaide Hills and
Clare
Valley
.
In
Western Australia
, there is a great
affinity to
Bordeaux
varietals.
The fruit is less intense as found in
its South Australian counterparts.
There is more earthiness and familiar cedar notes, not unlike what one
might find in
Washington
State
wines.
In
Victoria
, Pinot Noir is greatly venerated,
with the range of styles going from light and earthy to rich and ripe.
There are also wines made from
Shiraz
, Cabernet, or even
a blend of the two.
These have an
herbal tinge that distinguishes them from wines from the Barossa or
Coonawarra.
The climate is cooler
here, and the fruit is less dense.
Nothing more excellent or valuable than
wine has been granted by the gods to man.
Socrates
New
Zealand
Red
Wine
Vying for first amongst the World's up and coming regions
New
Zealand
is making great strides.
Establishing itself first, on the global
scale, with Sauvignon Blanc New
Zealand
also
has enchanting reds to offer.
With
the focus largely on Pinot Noir you will find a variety of styles from both
islands.
Silky and fruit forward are the wines of Martinborough.
Further south, in
Marlborough
the wines gain
density and structure.
Central Otago
, the world's southernmost wine making region
boasts Pinot Noir with vibrant acidity and entrancing meat, spice and earthy
notes.
With many producers
throughout the islands focusing on organic and sustainable agriculture,
biodynamics, clonal selection and small batch fermentation
New Zealand
promises to be deserving of attention in years to come.
Red Wines from the
Rest of the World
This section celebrates red wines from
Portugal
,
Switzerland
,
Alsace
,
Portugal
,
Lebanon
, Southwest France,
Argentina
and
Chile
.
Some of these regions have been around for a long time, but are
lesser-known and thus less accessible in the marketplace.
These and regions are growing at a fast
pace, with new discoveries, new technology and new wines to explore.
Wines of the
United States of
America
In this category, our intention is to celebrate winemaking across
America
.
The
U.S.
is a
relative newcomer to the world of winemaking.
Although there is evidence of vine
cultivation and wine production, from both native North American and European
varietals, existing prior to the arrival of the European missionaries and
settlers.
In the 1820's Thomas
Jefferson, himself a collector of fine French wines and
America
's first
oenophile, is said to have imported French soil to promote the growth of his
imported French vines.
Only a few
years later did he abandon the effort to grow European vines and concentrate on
cultivating native varietals.
During the years of Prohibition, wine consumption actually increased,
though the quality of the vineyards and the wines were likely questionable by
today's standards.
After
Prohibition, winemaking for commercial purposes once again grew in all states –
including
Kansas
, home of Carrie Nation's first outburst
in the name of temperance, and a dry state until 1948.
By 2001, there were licensed wineries in
all 50 states.
All these producers have
great pride in what they're cultivating.
Thus far, the results are good, with incredible potential in the years to
come.
European grape varieties are successful in many areas, particularly
California
,
Oregon
and
Washington
.
These regions are well represented
elsewhere in this story.
In this
section, we invite you to enjoy our ongoing search for the quintessential wine
produced in each of the 50 states, either from European and native North
American grape varieties, or from other fruits.
They may be red or white, dry or
sweet.
This chapter, like
winemaking in
North America
, is a work in
progress, and evolution.
The search
will continue as we cross borders and venture into
Canada
and
Mexico
.
Charlie Trotter's, as an American restaurant situated in the mid-west,
understands the responsibility we have to showcase these winemaking efforts and
allow them to share the table with our cuisine for your curiosity and
enjoyment.
To take wine into your mouth is to savor
a droplet of the river of human history.
Clifton Fadiman, writer, critic, editor
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